2010-09-09T14:13:27Z Arnie Millan Copyright 2010, Arnie Millan SPHPBLOG


To-date, I’ve tasted over 200 red and white Burgundy from the 2008 vintage, from village level to Grand Cru. I have also spoken with over a dozen vignerons, exploring their thoughts on 2008. This experience has given me a sense of the complex vintage.



Overall, 2008 appears to be a much better vintage than I’ve been led to expect from the professional pundits. I find the whites outstanding and the reds to be fresh, lively, elegant but not thin. These wines will age well; the reds need more time to show their stuff. To be fair, I’ve tasted from top producers and, although I’ve tasted my share of barrel samples (around 80 wines this past February), I’ve tasted wines closer to release (over 100 wines). Burgundy – especially red Burgundy - is very difficult to judge when young in barrel, especially before the malos* have been completed. But vintage judgments from all the top critics** have been made solely from barrel samples.



The whites are showing lively acidities and mineral notes. Normally lush Meursaults come across more like Puligny! This is a very fine vintage for whites; many show a subtle rich complexity. Outside the Côte d’Or, I even enjoyed a sensational Premier (1er) Cru white from Mercurey in the Chalonnaise (Chamirey’s 1er La Mission) and some amazingly rich and complex Pouilly-Fuissé (Chateau Fuissé)– both barrel samples. The Côte de Beaune whites are particular successes, from Beaune 1er Cru (Prieure’s Champs Pimont) to dazzling Meursault from Buisson-Charles (especially their village “Tessons”, 1er Goutte d’Or and Bouches-Chères) and superior Puligny, Rully, and Corton-Charlemagne from Olivier Leflaive.



Reds fared well, too. For these wines, the successes were made in the vineyard, not the cellar. Painstaking vine care, leaf canopy management, yield reduction and scrupulous sorting were necessary to produce top notch fruit with good concentration. Acidities were high and, in some cases, lesser wines are high-toned. Biodynamic vineyards fared particularly well. The top reds, however, are terrific!



Standout reds for me were Armand Rousseau’s Clos de la Roche and Chambertin Clos de Beize, both Grand Crus (available in 2011). Wow, what elegant richness. I loved Perdrix’s Echezeaux. These were barrel samples tasted in February. Recent tastings show the quality of this vintage and indicate how the wine will age in bottle. I was surprised recently at how complex and fresh these wines tasted; indeed some were dense and rich. I’m reminded here of Raphet’s delicious Clos de la Roche Grand Cru. These reds demonstrate how important the producer is to selecting good Burgundy, rather than the vintage.



More recently tasted Burgundy include Jean-Jacques Confuron’s Chambolle 1er Cru, Comte Armand’s amazingly concentrated Pommards (the younger vines 1er cru is a terrific buy). Huber-Verdereau’s biodynamic 1er Cru Volnay and Pommard were sleek and refined. I was wowed by the depth and complexity of Lafarge’s Volnay Clos des Chênes. Freddy Mugnier’s Nuits-St. Georges 1er Cru monopole Clos de la Maréchale was outstanding. Pavelot is usually an earthier style of Burgundy but not their terrific and richly styled 1er cru Savigny Serpentières or Dominodes; I think they are excellent values. Gevrey-based Taupenot-Merme turned out some intense 1er Cru Gevrey and Chambolle (Combe d’Orveau) and grand crus like Charmes- and Mazoyères-Chambertin. Finally Violot-Guillemard’s top Pommards (the Clos Derrière St. Jean, Rugiens and Epenots) showed beautifully.



Please let me know if you’d like to find out about upcoming Burgundy offers by contacting me at Esquin.



Cheers!

Arnie



* Malolactic fermentation usually proceeds after alcoholic fermentation, especially for all red wines, converting tart malic acid into softer lactic acid through the action of lactic bacteria.



** I’m referring to the Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, Stephen Tanzer and Burghound



]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry100822-100322 2010-08-22T00:00:00Z 2010-08-22T00:00:00Z


Although Ernie is known as Germany’s premier Riesling ambassador, he is a big Burgundy fan and collector. I can see why. Like Burgundy, great Riesling is all about subtlety and balance – not about attacking you with giant wines possessing tons of dry extract.



Ernie is a very entertaining and charming personality, full of great stories including his two hilarious encounters with a celebrated, iconic producer from Piedmont (I might talk more about this later but I promised discretion!). With Ernie, there is no pretension, artifice nor self-importance – he’s a really likeable guy!



Anyway, here are the wines we tasted, with some notes (I’m recalling them as best as I can from memory):



2004 Joseph Roty Mazys Chambertin Grand Cru

Very oaky and disjointed. Needs a lot more time but is the fruit there? No obvious nose of Grand Cru either. The least favorite wine o’ the night by unanimous vote. By the way, this Grand Cru is also spelled Mazis and Mazy. Perhaps it should have been decanted for a few hours.



2003 Comte de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

Very ripe (almost cooked) fruit on the nose, a telltale sign of a (very) hot vintage. Likewise, full, rich and round – what Clive Coates might describe as foursquare - on the palate with low acidity. A guilty pleasure, as this is not a more typically refined wine from Chambolle’s greatest producer.



2002 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Épeneaux

This was outstanding; rich yet refined with excellent depth and complexity. However, to be fair, this monopole* was the only wine to be decanted.



2001 Denis Mugneret Richebourg Grand Cru

Wow. This, and the Armand, were the wines of the night. Denis and his son Dominique sharecropped this parcel from Liger-Belair. A typical full, rich, intense Richebourg with aromas of violets and complex flavors of toffee and black berries.



1995 Daniel Rion Chambolle-Musigny

Daniel’s on Patrice made this wine. It was beginning to show its age, holding up pretty well for a village wine. The fruit of medium red berries was delicate but still many faceted.



1990 Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin

This showed impressively well for a 20 year old village wine. Like the Rion above, delicate fruit but still showed Gevrey’s firmness and animale aromas.



1990 Louis Latour Volnay 1er Cru Leds Santenots

Frankly, we were apprehensive about this wine, coming from a large négotiant house with a middling reputation. Wine snobbery? In any case, we were pleasantly surprised because it held up well and still showed tasty light berry fruit.



* a monopole is a rare, single-owner vineyard. Most vineyards in Burgundy have multiple owners.



]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry100801-130841 2010-08-01T00:00:00Z 2010-08-01T00:00:00Z Vinum Distributing , and nationally known Port authority Roy Hersh and his wife. Roy is a down-to-earth fellow with great stories and a marvelous palate.



This was a casual dinner get-together among unpretentious people (me excluded!) who love wine. Although there was no set “theme,” most of the wines served were from Portugal. The exceptions were a 2003 Chateau Pape Clement Bordeaux, which I brought, and Rob’s 2005 Confuron-Cotetidot’s village Vosne-Romanée Burgundy. The star of the evening, a fantastic 1948 Taylor Vintage Port, was saved for last.



The evening started with a delightfully complex bubbly Vinho Verde, the Casa de Cello, San Joanne Espumante 2002. It was yeasty and nutty with a pleasingly slight oxidative character. Two tasty cheese-based appetizers were served; one with shredded ham and onions was delicious.



We then went outside to table. Roy brought a terrific 2006 Douro white, Niepoort’s Redoma Reserva Branco, which had clean, beautiful tropical citrus fruit notes and – for a Douro wine – excellent acidity. No Douro “bake” here! Roy also mentioned that this same winemaker produces a decent Pinot Noir – in the hot Douro! Our host opened a lovely Minhão Branco (white), also from San Joanne. Minhào is in Portugal’s Northwest Vinho Verde region.



At this point, we discussed the various grapes in these wines and the wealth of Portugal’s hundreds of native varietals. Most Portuguese dry wines and Ports are field blends of many different grapes. It’s not like asking if it’s Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc; at best, we can guess if it’s a blend with Avesso or Rabigato or whatever. It’s sometimes nice not to know – just relax and enjoy the wine!



Mike served up an excellent grilled salmon with a ragu of caramelized onions and mushrooms.



Next up were the reds, starting with Rob’s Vosne-Romanée. It was perfect with the salmon. Its lush texture likely due to the warm 2005 vintage ad its alluring aroma so typical of Vosne. We then opened up the Pape Clement and it was surprisingly approachable for a massive young Bordeaux; opulent dark fruit with aromas of dusty pencil lead. I downed it with the grilled steak Michael served next. Yum!



It was back to Portugal with some terrific reds – again blends with one exception. I’m fascinated that all four reds (and the Taylor Port) we tasted were produced in a similar manner: old vines/low yields giving concentrated fruit, traditional foot treading and fermentation in concrete lagares.



We started with two wines from Quinta do Fojo, the 2000 Fojo and their 2000 Quinta da Manuela. Surprisingly, we found the Manuela to be the richer, bigger wine while the Fojo was more elegant or perhaps a bit more closed up. Based on our host’s previous experience with these two wines, he and Rob expected the opposite. I found the Manuela to be the more interesting wine. Both are big, massive reds with dark red velvety fruit



Next up was a pairing from Herdade do Mouchão, from Alentejo, south of Lisbon. This winery features the Alicante Bouschet grape, a red fleshed variety originally from France (a cross of Petit Bouschet and Grenache) also known as Garnacha Tintorera in Spain. The first wine tasted was the self named 2003 Mouchao, a blend of predominantly Alicante Bouschet with Trincadeira. This was outstanding, a more refined wine than the Fojo. It offered a deep rich color and spicy dark berry fruit. The Mouchao is released four years after the vintage, spending two years in cask and two in bottle.



One of the more remarkable reds was Mouchao’s Tonel 3-4. It is 100% Alicante Bouschet, produced only in exceptional vintages and aged two years in two special 5000 liter casks (tonels 3 and 4), which are made of Portuguese oak and Brazilian hardwoods. The wine is then aged two more years in bottle. Wow, the wine was dark, complex, spicy and plummy.



Dinner was finished and we went on to a cheese course with the evening’s featured wine, the 1948 Taylor Port. Rob opened the bottle like a jeweler dissecting a top Swiss watch. Our expectations grew as Rob painstakingly worked the fragile cork. Alas, it broke but he extracted all the pieces with surgeon-like precision. We were then poured the wine without decanting in cheesecloth so there was considerable sediment.



Yikes (a technical wine term)! The Port tasted of nut and toffee but it was alive with nice fruit concentration and, yes acidity. Just how much longer can this wine live? The Taylor did not disappoint; it was the best port I have ever tasted. The cigars came out and we opened a Warre’s 1994 Vintage. It boasted lush, sweet red fruit – a nice follow up to the Taylor and a splendid way to end a memorable, convivial evening.

]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry100711-133515 2010-07-11T00:00:00Z 2010-07-11T00:00:00Z


Before those tastings, my impression of that vintage was unfavorable, in those two regions, due to the lukewarm-to-bad press* and, in far lesser part, to an unusually mediocre Côtes-du-Rhône from a renowned producer. On that basis, I concluded 2008 was a poor vintage in the Rhone and in Burgundy.



Wrong!



I believe the two recent tastings gave me a much more valid basis to assess this vintage. Alas, few people get the opportunity to do so. Most must rely on pundits like Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate or The Wine Spectator or on restaurant or retail sommeliers. In fairness, I should add that the published vintage assessments were made at least one year before my assessment; I had the distinct advantage of tasting wines with more maturity under their belt.



Here are my impressions:



Burgundy

While I agree with the Spectator that ’08 was a better vintage for whites than reds, I would up the rating to B+ for whites and a B for reds, with the proviso that the best producers still produced amazing reds. Domaine Armand Rousseau made a killer Gevrey Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru and Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Domaine des Perdrix crafted a gorgeous Échezeaux Grand Cru. As for whites, I was enchanted by the Mercurey Monopole La Mission” 1er Cru from Chateau de Chamirey and a remarkable Beaune “Champs Pimonts” 1er Cru from Domaine Jacques Prieure.

Prieure’s reds, including their Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, were disappointing.



Southern Rhone

I would up the Southern Rhone to an “A-“ rating. Nearly all the wines tasted were excellent especially the Village level on up (Cairanne up to Chiateauneuf). The problem is that this vintage lies in the shadow of the stunning 2007 vintage. In general, the wines are excellent but they lack some of the depth of the ‘07s. I was surprised by just how ghood the wines were, especially given the lackluster 2008 Côtes-du-Rhône I tasted last year. I feel, after talking with about 12 winemakers, that 2008 definitely favored Grenache over Syrah.



Other 2008 regions tasted:



Bordeaux

I’ve only sampled a dozen Right Bank Bordeaux from barrel last May but the wines were stunning. An excellent vintage. The Spectator gives it measly “B-“ while Parker rates it, by region, from Excellent to Extraordinary.



Germany

Another excellent vintage, especially for Kabinett and Spätlese. 2008 was a classic vintage, like 2004 only better - the 2008s have "more acid verve, and its fruit has more punch." 2008 "yielded wines that are very ripe with a near electric poise on the palate."** Balance is the key characteristic of 2008. The longer hang times/later harvest (7-10 days than 2007 in most regions) meant more fruit concentration and greater tartaric acid levels. The result is wines with racy acidity, concentration of fruit, lower alcohols - balance!



I’ve tasted nearly two dozen ‘08s and I’m excited about this vintage. The Spectator gives it an “A-“ and I agree with that.



* The Wine Spectator rates the Southern Rhone as a “B” and Burgundy (whites “B-“ and reds a “C+”)

** Rudi Weist Vintage Report 2008

]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry100307-132912 2010-03-07T00:00:00Z 2010-03-07T00:00:00Z


Chef Jason himself greeted us and came by to describe each dish as it was served.



Jason and staff double decanting the wines



We began with decadent Cave Aged Gruyere Cheese Gougeres drizzled with truffle oil accompanied by Coultier Grand Cru Champagne



We then sat down, with our Champagne, to enjoy an incredible seaood trio of Hawaiian Ahi Tuna Crudo with Blood Orange, Olive & Fennel

Sea Scallops Sashimi with Warm Black Truffle Cauliflower & Meyer Lemon

"Bacon n Eggs", Parsnip flan, Smoked Steelhead Roe, Bourbon Barrel Aged Maple Syrup



A fantastic pairing was the 1990 Fontainerie Vouvray Moeulleux with a complex flavored dish of Dungeness Crab and Mascarpone Raviolo

Buttered Pumpkin, Pinata Apple, Frisee & Chervil



The sautéed Rhode Island Black Bass & Meyer Lemon Sabayon with Baby Octopus, Sunchokes, Chorizo, Baby Fennel, Sherry Brown Butter was backed by the exceptionally rich 2003 Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le Meal.



Perhaps one of most stunning dishes was the Black Garlic Sausage Wrapped Lido Farms Lamb Loin with Sous Vide Root Vegetables, Soubisse & Rosemary. Chef Jason told us how he painstakingly prepares the sausage wrap. We enjoyed a 1996 Troplong Mondot Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classée. It was perfect, tasting it just at the apex of its maturity.



Oh, my goodness, talk about decadence! After the Lamb loin, we enjoyed the Grilled Painted Hills Wagyu Beef Rib Steak with Potato Leek & Truffle Terrine, Thumbelina's, Hedgehogs & Cabernet Sauce. We accompanied this dish with two wines: the 2001 d'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz (the first bottle was corked but, thankfully, we had a back up bottle) and a spectacular 2005 Mas 'en Compte Les Planots Priorat.



We were nearly ready to surrender when Jason presented the Vahlrhona Chocolate Bombe with Cocoa Nib Merignue, Salted Butter Caramel, Chocolate Ganache & Hazelnut Mousse, Huckleberry Spice Beignets. Yikes. When I sipped the brilliant 1985 Graham's Port with this dish, I closed my eyes relishing the moment.



As if this wasn't enough, the meal finished with an artistic array of Mignardises: Poppyseed-lemon brittle, walnut macaroon, coconut truffles, earl grey caramels, Vanilla madelines, Smoked Salt Caramel, Chocolate chip cookies.



Thank you, Jason!]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry100220-220837 2010-02-21T00:00:00Z 2010-02-21T00:00:00Z ]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry100101-210831 2010-01-02T00:00:00Z 2010-01-02T00:00:00Z Ultra affordable

Segura Viudas Cava NV (= Non Vintage) $7.99

Very clean, good acidity, hint of creamy green apple fruit – a bargain.

50% Macabeo, 35% Parrellada, 15% Xarel-lo. Secondary fermentation in bottle, aged 2 years on the lees, 3 years total in bottle.



I can’t believe it’s not Champagne!

Louis Bouillot Brut Crémant de Bourgogne NV “Perle de Vigne” $12.99

80% Pinot Noir, the balance among Chardonnay, Gamay and Aligoté. Secondary fermentation in bottle, aged 2 years on the lees



My favorite everyday sparkler

Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé Cremant d’Alsace $17.99

A perfect, delicate, rosé from 100% Pinot Noir. It cascades down the palate like a silver, strawberry waterfall.



I will be adding to this entry later tonight.



All prices are Esquin's December pricing]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry091224-100725 2009-12-24T00:00:00Z 2009-12-24T00:00:00Z


We began with Gaston Chiquet’s Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne. Chiquet is a small grower and he is also a member of the exclusive Club des Viticulteurs. This blanc de blancs is one of my favorites; full-bodied with a touch of creaminess.



The first course was Seared Scallop with Sea Urchin and Lobster Eggs. It was a beautiful presentation. We paired it to the Kongsgaard 2001 Napa Chardonnay. Tasting the Kongsgaard before the dish revealed a wine with great body and richness, like a top flight Chassagne. After tasting the dish, the flavors of slight brine mixed with the subtle sweetness from the lobster eggs, the wine took on dramatic new flavors with a strong anise presence. Wow.



The second course was Braised Monkfish with Shallots, Saffron, Clam Broth and

Star Anise Aioli. It was magic with the rich round nutty apricot flavors of the Chapoutier 2005 Ermitage Blanc de l’Orée.



Now for the red wines. The third course was a spectacular Grilled Lamb Rack Chop with Black Truffle Bread Pudding, and Kale. The smoky, earthy flavors were heaven with the Guigal 1997 Côte Rotie La Landonne. The Guigal was surprisingly youthful, smoky in its own right with beautiful dark fruit offsetting the earthiness of the lamb dish.



Our fourth course was a sublime Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Foie Gras, Demi Glace, and Very Old Balsamic. It was paired to the Benjamin Romeo 2001 Contador Rioja – a wine of deep dark power. At this point one of the guests brought a special wine that we tasted blind alongside the Contador. It turned out to be a 2000 Pavie Saint-Emilion Bordeaux. Both were fabulous!



We finished with an intense wine, the Alois Kracher #12, paired to a delicately gelatinous Panna Cotta Formaggioso with Apricot Sauce, Golden Raisin And Orange Compote topped by an Almond Florentine. The #12 has less than 4% alcohol so, under Austrian law, it cannot be called a wine. It was unctuous, complex and a kind companion to the panna cotta – not overwhelming it.



Chef Peter Levine did an incredible job creating dishes I can still taste later. Our server and wine captain were outstanding. Never obtrusive, they quietly and efficiently orchestrated our dinner so that it flowed smoothly while they attended to each individual’s needs.



A memorable event!]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry091210-015509 2009-12-10T00:00:00Z 2009-12-10T00:00:00Z

Six courses, ten wines. Bliss.



Coming up: 10 and 20 Year Retrospective Dinners at Crush.



Here's the wine list and menu:





Menu and Wines



Rosé Saignée Champagne or Blanc de Noirs Champagne

Cured Salmon en Gelée with Haricot Vert and Caper Berry



Alain Burguet, Gevrey Chambertin “ Mes Favorites” 2005

Alain Burguet, Chambolle-Musigny “ Les Chardannes” 2005

Pig Trotter Salad with Red Onion and Arugula



Shea Cellars, Shea Vyd “Homer,”, Willamette 2002

Ken Wright, Guadalupe Vyd, Willamette 2002

Smoked Guinea Fowl Soup with Morel, Bacon and Leeks



Rochioli, Russian River 2005

Sea Smoke Southing Santa Rita Hills 2005

Baked Halibut, Peas, Beets and Truffle Butter



Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2003

Vincent Girardin Chambolle-Musigny Vielles Vignes 2003

Rabbit, Chanterelle, Goat Cheese with Sage Sauce



Chateau d’Arlay Pinot Noir Macvin nv

Strawberry Soup with Spice Infused Red Wine and Créme Fraîche ]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry090724-232822 2009-07-25T00:00:00Z 2009-07-25T00:00:00Z The trip was courtesy of a wine-loving billionaire who invited 10 wine professionals from around the country to tour his estates in Bordeaux and his friend's domaines in the Loire Valley.



During the flights, we were pampered by an attentive flight attendant with glasses of Champagne, top Bordeaux and amazing platters of foods. Once on the ground, we were whisked around the French countryside in two Mercedes vans. Of course, we drank amazing wines and enjoyed spectacular cuisine!



Highlights of the trip:



* Touring Chateau Fontplegade, a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru

* Barrel sampling the outstanding 2008 vintage in Bordeaux

* Catching air in front of Pomerol's legendary Chateau Petrus

* Dining like royalty in charming Saint-Emilion

* Goofing around the lawn of Chateau Cheval Blanc

* Staying in the picturesque village of Chenonceaux in the Loire Valley

* Visiting the "troglodyte" caves of Vouvray

* The wonderful, charming people I met, especially my fellow travelers - no self-important snoots on the trip!

* Getter better acquainted with Bordeaux and the Loire by insiders

]]> http://www.arniemillan.com/winetalk/index.php?entry=entry090719-110540 2009-07-19T00:00:00Z 2009-07-19T00:00:00Z