Before those tastings, my impression of that vintage was unfavorable, in those two regions, due to the lukewarm-to-bad press* and, in far lesser part, to an unusually mediocre Côtes-du-Rhône from a renowned producer. On that basis, I concluded 2008 was a poor vintage in the Rhone and in Burgundy.
Wrong!
I believe the two recent tastings gave me a much more valid basis to assess this vintage. Alas, few people get the opportunity to do so. Most must rely on pundits like Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate or The Wine Spectator or on restaurant or retail sommeliers. In fairness, I should add that the published vintage assessments were made at least one year before my assessment; I had the distinct advantage of tasting wines with more maturity under their belt.
Here are my impressions:
Burgundy
While I agree with the Spectator that ’08 was a better vintage for whites than reds, I would up the rating to B+ for whites and a B for reds, with the proviso that the best producers still produced amazing reds. Domaine Armand Rousseau made a killer Gevrey Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru and Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Domaine des Perdrix crafted a gorgeous Échezeaux Grand Cru. As for whites, I was enchanted by the Mercurey Monopole La Mission” 1er Cru from Chateau de Chamirey and a remarkable Beaune “Champs Pimonts” 1er Cru from Domaine Jacques Prieure.
Prieure’s reds, including their Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, were disappointing.
Southern Rhone
I would up the Southern Rhone to an “A-“ rating. Nearly all the wines tasted were excellent especially the Village level on up (Cairanne up to Chiateauneuf). The problem is that this vintage lies in the shadow of the stunning 2007 vintage. In general, the wines are excellent but they lack some of the depth of the ‘07s. I was surprised by just how ghood the wines were, especially given the lackluster 2008 Côtes-du-Rhône I tasted last year. I feel, after talking with about 12 winemakers, that 2008 definitely favored Grenache over Syrah.
Other 2008 regions tasted:
Bordeaux
I’ve only sampled a dozen Right Bank Bordeaux from barrel last May but the wines were stunning. An excellent vintage. The Spectator gives it measly “B-“ while Parker rates it, by region, from Excellent to Extraordinary.
Germany
Another excellent vintage, especially for Kabinett and Spätlese. 2008 was a classic vintage, like 2004 only better - the 2008s have "more acid verve, and its fruit has more punch." 2008 "yielded wines that are very ripe with a near electric poise on the palate."** Balance is the key characteristic of 2008. The longer hang times/later harvest (7-10 days than 2007 in most regions) meant more fruit concentration and greater tartaric acid levels. The result is wines with racy acidity, concentration of fruit, lower alcohols - balance!
I’ve tasted nearly two dozen ‘08s and I’m excited about this vintage. The Spectator gives it an “A-“ and I agree with that.
* The Wine Spectator rates the Southern Rhone as a “B” and Burgundy (whites “B-“ and reds a “C+”)
** Rudi Weist Vintage Report 2008
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( 3 / 110 )Just when you thought you've had enough, you can check out my mirror-shattering chops on video hawking Esquin or Bubbly.
Esquin Promo on Comcast
KING5 News
Don't say I didn't warn you!
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( 2.9 / 184 )With New Year’s upon us, here are some thoughts and recommendations for a sparkling celebration.
There are many excellent alternatives to expensive Champagne (all are dry, except as noted):
• Cava (Spanish sparkling wine)
• Blanquette de Limoux (from the Languedoc in southern France)
• Cremant – sparkling wines from various French regions like Burgundy/Bourgogne, Alsace, Loire, etc.)
• domestic sparkling
• Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine)
• Moscato and Spumante (more Italian bubbly, slightly sweet)
• Sekt (German bubbly)
Yet Champagne is…ah…Champagne! Its bubbles are smaller, its flavors more subtle and complex, often layered with minerality. It costs much more but some of the best values are found in small grower Champagnes, instead of the larger “brand name” producers (also called the “Grandes Marques”). The small growers produce wine from their own holdings while the big guys purchase most of their fruit from other growers.
Here are some specific recommendations organized by price. I’ve just selected a few wines, based on what I buy for my own use:
Cava – Segura Viudas Reserva for $6.99 – their magnum, a double bottle, is a ton of fun at $12.99! It's crisp, clean, dry with a hint of green apple.
Cremant de Bourgogne – Louis Boulliot Perle de Vigne at $12.99 – I call this Champagne Junior! 80% Pinot Noir,20% Chardonnay. Fermented in the bottle like Champagne but for 2 years on the lees. A great value.
Cremant d’Alsace – Lucien Albrecht Cremant Rosé $17.99 – I love this dry Rosé! Delightful, dry Pinot Noir full of delicate strawberries.
Champagne Dumont – small grower Champagne at $27.99. A terrific value in a true Champagne from the Aube district. Medium body with a nice balance of lemon, toast and crispness.
Champagne Camille Savès – small grower at $42.99. One of my favorites: think dry lemon/vanilla cheesecake.
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( 3 / 211 )Many great wines are available for your enjoyment this holiday season. The expensive ones are not hard to find, especially these days.
But it takes a little knowledge to discover the terrific values that make affordable the enjoyment of quality wine. Please contact me directly for specific recommendations. Here are some general thoughts:
a) Try looking for Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Ventoux, Cotes du Luberon and Coteaux de Tricastin, in that order. These are both red and white wines based largely on the Grenache grape (Grenache Noir for reds, Grenache Blanc for whites) that pair well with savory turkey, pork and chicken dishes. Most sell for under $15/bottle and are very well-made.
b) Off-dry wines like Gewurztraminer, Riesling and demi-sec Vouvray are great holiday food whites. The best Gewurztraminer is from the Alsace region in France but it can be costly, starting in the upper teens ($16+) so check out some domestic counterparts. On the other hand Riesling from Germany is often the best value.
c) For sparkling wines seek out Spanish Cavas , often under $10, and French Cremant (de Bourgogne, d’Alsace or de la Loire), which sells for under $20. Also Blanquette de Limoux is a good value bubbly.
d) Try Pinot Noir from France’s Languedoc region; it’s often under $13. Red Burgundy is too expensive and I’ve been disappointed by domestic Pinots under $14 although there are a few good ones from California and Oregon between $17 to $20.
e) Here’s a listing of other areas to hunt for values:
- Spanish reds
- Argentine Malbec and Torrontes (white wine)
- New Zealand and Australian whites
- California Zinfandel and red blends
- Beaujolais Cru, not nouveau!
- Australian dessert wines (“stickies”) and Italian Moscato d’Asti
- Low cost Italian reds like Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
- French reds from the Languedoc and Roussillon
- French crisp whites from the Cotes de Gascogne or Touraine
Happy hunting!
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