Before those tastings, my impression of that vintage was unfavorable, in those two regions, due to the lukewarm-to-bad press* and, in far lesser part, to an unusually mediocre Côtes-du-Rhône from a renowned producer. On that basis, I concluded 2008 was a poor vintage in the Rhone and in Burgundy.
Wrong!
I believe the two recent tastings gave me a much more valid basis to assess this vintage. Alas, few people get the opportunity to do so. Most must rely on pundits like Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate or The Wine Spectator or on restaurant or retail sommeliers. In fairness, I should add that the published vintage assessments were made at least one year before my assessment; I had the distinct advantage of tasting wines with more maturity under their belt.
Here are my impressions:
Burgundy
While I agree with the Spectator that ’08 was a better vintage for whites than reds, I would up the rating to B+ for whites and a B for reds, with the proviso that the best producers still produced amazing reds. Domaine Armand Rousseau made a killer Gevrey Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru and Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Domaine des Perdrix crafted a gorgeous Échezeaux Grand Cru. As for whites, I was enchanted by the Mercurey Monopole La Mission” 1er Cru from Chateau de Chamirey and a remarkable Beaune “Champs Pimonts” 1er Cru from Domaine Jacques Prieure.
Prieure’s reds, including their Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, were disappointing.
Southern Rhone
I would up the Southern Rhone to an “A-“ rating. Nearly all the wines tasted were excellent especially the Village level on up (Cairanne up to Chiateauneuf). The problem is that this vintage lies in the shadow of the stunning 2007 vintage. In general, the wines are excellent but they lack some of the depth of the ‘07s. I was surprised by just how ghood the wines were, especially given the lackluster 2008 Côtes-du-Rhône I tasted last year. I feel, after talking with about 12 winemakers, that 2008 definitely favored Grenache over Syrah.
Other 2008 regions tasted:
Bordeaux
I’ve only sampled a dozen Right Bank Bordeaux from barrel last May but the wines were stunning. An excellent vintage. The Spectator gives it measly “B-“ while Parker rates it, by region, from Excellent to Extraordinary.
Germany
Another excellent vintage, especially for Kabinett and Spätlese. 2008 was a classic vintage, like 2004 only better - the 2008s have "more acid verve, and its fruit has more punch." 2008 "yielded wines that are very ripe with a near electric poise on the palate."** Balance is the key characteristic of 2008. The longer hang times/later harvest (7-10 days than 2007 in most regions) meant more fruit concentration and greater tartaric acid levels. The result is wines with racy acidity, concentration of fruit, lower alcohols - balance!
I’ve tasted nearly two dozen ‘08s and I’m excited about this vintage. The Spectator gives it an “A-“ and I agree with that.
* The Wine Spectator rates the Southern Rhone as a “B” and Burgundy (whites “B-“ and reds a “C+”)
** Rudi Weist Vintage Report 2008
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