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Don't say I didn't warn you!
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( 2.9 / 184 )With New Year’s upon us, here are some thoughts and recommendations for a sparkling celebration.
There are many excellent alternatives to expensive Champagne (all are dry, except as noted):
• Cava (Spanish sparkling wine)
• Blanquette de Limoux (from the Languedoc in southern France)
• Cremant – sparkling wines from various French regions like Burgundy/Bourgogne, Alsace, Loire, etc.)
• domestic sparkling
• Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine)
• Moscato and Spumante (more Italian bubbly, slightly sweet)
• Sekt (German bubbly)
Yet Champagne is…ah…Champagne! Its bubbles are smaller, its flavors more subtle and complex, often layered with minerality. It costs much more but some of the best values are found in small grower Champagnes, instead of the larger “brand name” producers (also called the “Grandes Marques”). The small growers produce wine from their own holdings while the big guys purchase most of their fruit from other growers.
Here are some specific recommendations organized by price. I’ve just selected a few wines, based on what I buy for my own use:
Cava – Segura Viudas Reserva for $6.99 – their magnum, a double bottle, is a ton of fun at $12.99! It's crisp, clean, dry with a hint of green apple.
Cremant de Bourgogne – Louis Boulliot Perle de Vigne at $12.99 – I call this Champagne Junior! 80% Pinot Noir,20% Chardonnay. Fermented in the bottle like Champagne but for 2 years on the lees. A great value.
Cremant d’Alsace – Lucien Albrecht Cremant Rosé $17.99 – I love this dry Rosé! Delightful, dry Pinot Noir full of delicate strawberries.
Champagne Dumont – small grower Champagne at $27.99. A terrific value in a true Champagne from the Aube district. Medium body with a nice balance of lemon, toast and crispness.
Champagne Camille Savès – small grower at $42.99. One of my favorites: think dry lemon/vanilla cheesecake.
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( 3 / 211 )There are so many misperceptions about sulfites in wine that I thought I’d address the issue here.
Sulfites can occur naturally in wine. However, sulfur (dioxide) has been used for over two thousand years in winemaking for two important reasons: as an antioxidant, especially with white wines, and as a microbicidal, killing unwanted bacteria which may lead to off-flavors in wine.
Sulfur is crucial to producing quality wine. It is mostly added during three crucial stages in winemaking; 1) at the crusher 2) during alcoholic and malolactic fermentation and 3) at bottling. Winemakers would love to lower the level of sulfites in wine and reduce the addition of sulfur dioxide (SO2) but, like France’s Nicolas Potel, have been disappointed with the results when they have experimented with no or low levels. Some winemakers are using inert gasses instead of sulfur to protect their wines from oxidation.
Sulfites are also present in nearly all organic and biodynamic wines and the addition of sulfur dioxide is permitted in organic winemaking.
Sulfite allergies can be severe, although rare. They largely involve asthma-related breathing reactions, which may be fatal in extreme cases. So asthmatics and people allergic to aspirin are particularly susceptible. U.S. labeling laws are stringent; any wine with more than 10 mg/liter of sulfur dioxide must be labeled “contains sulfites.” Yet this level can be reach easily in nature, without the addition of SO2. By the way, dried fruits and pre-packaged salads can contain up to 10 times the SO2 level of wine!
Common Misperceptions
Headaches, stuffy nose or rashes are due to sulfites
These reactions are indicative of a histamine reaction rather than sulfite allergies (see above). Most people tell me they get these reactions from red wines rather than white wines, so they mostly consume whites. Yet white wines contain far greater levels of sulfites than reds because sulfur is critical in preventing whites from oxidation and its consequent deeper, darker color.
Organic wines are sulfite free
As mentioned above, sulfur is permitted in organic viticulture and winemaking. After all, sulfites are an organic compound.
European wines have less sulfur than American wines or European producers add sulfur to wines exported to the U.S.
This is completely false. The addition to sulfur dioxide to wine is a practice that began in Europe and is advocated by all major European wine institutes and educational facilities. The use of sulfur in winemaking does not follow any geographical pattern. Nor do Europeans add sulfur to suit American tastes; not least because it is obviously uneconomic.
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( 2.9 / 246 )Many great wines are available for your enjoyment this holiday season. The expensive ones are not hard to find, especially these days.
But it takes a little knowledge to discover the terrific values that make affordable the enjoyment of quality wine. Please contact me directly for specific recommendations. Here are some general thoughts:
a) Try looking for Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Ventoux, Cotes du Luberon and Coteaux de Tricastin, in that order. These are both red and white wines based largely on the Grenache grape (Grenache Noir for reds, Grenache Blanc for whites) that pair well with savory turkey, pork and chicken dishes. Most sell for under $15/bottle and are very well-made.
b) Off-dry wines like Gewurztraminer, Riesling and demi-sec Vouvray are great holiday food whites. The best Gewurztraminer is from the Alsace region in France but it can be costly, starting in the upper teens ($16+) so check out some domestic counterparts. On the other hand Riesling from Germany is often the best value.
c) For sparkling wines seek out Spanish Cavas , often under $10, and French Cremant (de Bourgogne, d’Alsace or de la Loire), which sells for under $20. Also Blanquette de Limoux is a good value bubbly.
d) Try Pinot Noir from France’s Languedoc region; it’s often under $13. Red Burgundy is too expensive and I’ve been disappointed by domestic Pinots under $14 although there are a few good ones from California and Oregon between $17 to $20.
e) Here’s a listing of other areas to hunt for values:
- Spanish reds
- Argentine Malbec and Torrontes (white wine)
- New Zealand and Australian whites
- California Zinfandel and red blends
- Beaujolais Cru, not nouveau!
- Australian dessert wines (“stickies”) and Italian Moscato d’Asti
- Low cost Italian reds like Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
- French reds from the Languedoc and Roussillon
- French crisp whites from the Cotes de Gascogne or Touraine
Happy hunting!
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( 2.9 / 172 )San Filippo 2002 Brunello di Montalcino
In the glass, the wine is a classic Brunello; light with a pronounced garnet tint. The nose is profound with rose petal, tobacco, cocoa powder and blackberry fruit. The palate is rich with blackberry, cassis and chocolate with a slight brambly-berry note.
An amazing value at $28.99.
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