Before those tastings, my impression of that vintage was unfavorable, in those two regions, due to the lukewarm-to-bad press* and, in far lesser part, to an unusually mediocre Côtes-du-Rhône from a renowned producer. On that basis, I concluded 2008 was a poor vintage in the Rhone and in Burgundy.
Wrong!
I believe the two recent tastings gave me a much more valid basis to assess this vintage. Alas, few people get the opportunity to do so. Most must rely on pundits like Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate or The Wine Spectator or on restaurant or retail sommeliers. In fairness, I should add that the published vintage assessments were made at least one year before my assessment; I had the distinct advantage of tasting wines with more maturity under their belt.
Here are my impressions:
Burgundy
While I agree with the Spectator that ’08 was a better vintage for whites than reds, I would up the rating to B+ for whites and a B for reds, with the proviso that the best producers still produced amazing reds. Domaine Armand Rousseau made a killer Gevrey Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru and Clos de Bèze Grand Cru. Domaine des Perdrix crafted a gorgeous Échezeaux Grand Cru. As for whites, I was enchanted by the Mercurey Monopole La Mission” 1er Cru from Chateau de Chamirey and a remarkable Beaune “Champs Pimonts” 1er Cru from Domaine Jacques Prieure.
Prieure’s reds, including their Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, were disappointing.
Southern Rhone
I would up the Southern Rhone to an “A-“ rating. Nearly all the wines tasted were excellent especially the Village level on up (Cairanne up to Chiateauneuf). The problem is that this vintage lies in the shadow of the stunning 2007 vintage. In general, the wines are excellent but they lack some of the depth of the ‘07s. I was surprised by just how ghood the wines were, especially given the lackluster 2008 Côtes-du-Rhône I tasted last year. I feel, after talking with about 12 winemakers, that 2008 definitely favored Grenache over Syrah.
Other 2008 regions tasted:
Bordeaux
I’ve only sampled a dozen Right Bank Bordeaux from barrel last May but the wines were stunning. An excellent vintage. The Spectator gives it measly “B-“ while Parker rates it, by region, from Excellent to Extraordinary.
Germany
Another excellent vintage, especially for Kabinett and Spätlese. 2008 was a classic vintage, like 2004 only better - the 2008s have "more acid verve, and its fruit has more punch." 2008 "yielded wines that are very ripe with a near electric poise on the palate."** Balance is the key characteristic of 2008. The longer hang times/later harvest (7-10 days than 2007 in most regions) meant more fruit concentration and greater tartaric acid levels. The result is wines with racy acidity, concentration of fruit, lower alcohols - balance!
I’ve tasted nearly two dozen ‘08s and I’m excited about this vintage. The Spectator gives it an “A-“ and I agree with that.
* The Wine Spectator rates the Southern Rhone as a “B” and Burgundy (whites “B-“ and reds a “C+”)
** Rudi Weist Vintage Report 2008
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( 2.9 / 128 )What an incredible evening! Chef/owner Jason Wilson graciously opened his doors on Monday only to us lucky few.
Chef Jason himself greeted us and came by to describe each dish as it was served.
Jason and staff double decanting the wines
We began with decadent Cave Aged Gruyere Cheese Gougeres drizzled with truffle oil accompanied by Coultier Grand Cru Champagne
We then sat down, with our Champagne, to enjoy an incredible seaood trio of Hawaiian Ahi Tuna Crudo with Blood Orange, Olive & Fennel
Sea Scallops Sashimi with Warm Black Truffle Cauliflower & Meyer Lemon
"Bacon n Eggs", Parsnip flan, Smoked Steelhead Roe, Bourbon Barrel Aged Maple Syrup
A fantastic pairing was the 1990 Fontainerie Vouvray Moeulleux with a complex flavored dish of Dungeness Crab and Mascarpone Raviolo
Buttered Pumpkin, Pinata Apple, Frisee & Chervil
The sautéed Rhode Island Black Bass & Meyer Lemon Sabayon with Baby Octopus, Sunchokes, Chorizo, Baby Fennel, Sherry Brown Butter was backed by the exceptionally rich 2003 Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le Meal.
Perhaps one of most stunning dishes was the Black Garlic Sausage Wrapped Lido Farms Lamb Loin with Sous Vide Root Vegetables, Soubisse & Rosemary. Chef Jason told us how he painstakingly prepares the sausage wrap. We enjoyed a 1996 Troplong Mondot Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classée. It was perfect, tasting it just at the apex of its maturity.
Oh, my goodness, talk about decadence! After the Lamb loin, we enjoyed the Grilled Painted Hills Wagyu Beef Rib Steak with Potato Leek & Truffle Terrine, Thumbelina's, Hedgehogs & Cabernet Sauce. We accompanied this dish with two wines: the 2001 d'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz (the first bottle was corked but, thankfully, we had a back up bottle) and a spectacular 2005 Mas 'en Compte Les Planots Priorat.
We were nearly ready to surrender when Jason presented the Vahlrhona Chocolate Bombe with Cocoa Nib Merignue, Salted Butter Caramel, Chocolate Ganache & Hazelnut Mousse, Huckleberry Spice Beignets. Yikes. When I sipped the brilliant 1985 Graham's Port with this dish, I closed my eyes relishing the moment.
As if this wasn't enough, the meal finished with an artistic array of Mignardises: Poppyseed-lemon brittle, walnut macaroon, coconut truffles, earl grey caramels, Vanilla madelines, Smoked Salt Caramel, Chocolate chip cookies.
Thank you, Jason!
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( 2.8 / 91 )
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( 3 / 110 )Ultra affordable
Segura Viudas Cava NV (= Non Vintage) $7.99
Very clean, good acidity, hint of creamy green apple fruit – a bargain.
50% Macabeo, 35% Parrellada, 15% Xarel-lo. Secondary fermentation in bottle, aged 2 years on the lees, 3 years total in bottle.
I can’t believe it’s not Champagne!
Louis Bouillot Brut Crémant de Bourgogne NV “Perle de Vigne” $12.99
80% Pinot Noir, the balance among Chardonnay, Gamay and Aligoté. Secondary fermentation in bottle, aged 2 years on the lees
My favorite everyday sparkler
Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé Cremant d’Alsace $17.99
A perfect, delicate, rosé from 100% Pinot Noir. It cascades down the palate like a silver, strawberry waterfall.
I will be adding to this entry later tonight.
All prices are Esquin's December pricing
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( 2.9 / 104 )This past Saturday, 12 of us enjoyed a terrific 5 course dinner paired to rare wines in the private South Bay room at Waterfront Seafood Grill on Pier 70. The setting was perfect as was the food and service.
We began with Gaston Chiquet’s Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne. Chiquet is a small grower and he is also a member of the exclusive Club des Viticulteurs. This blanc de blancs is one of my favorites; full-bodied with a touch of creaminess.
The first course was Seared Scallop with Sea Urchin and Lobster Eggs. It was a beautiful presentation. We paired it to the Kongsgaard 2001 Napa Chardonnay. Tasting the Kongsgaard before the dish revealed a wine with great body and richness, like a top flight Chassagne. After tasting the dish, the flavors of slight brine mixed with the subtle sweetness from the lobster eggs, the wine took on dramatic new flavors with a strong anise presence. Wow.
The second course was Braised Monkfish with Shallots, Saffron, Clam Broth and
Star Anise Aioli. It was magic with the rich round nutty apricot flavors of the Chapoutier 2005 Ermitage Blanc de l’Orée.
Now for the red wines. The third course was a spectacular Grilled Lamb Rack Chop with Black Truffle Bread Pudding, and Kale. The smoky, earthy flavors were heaven with the Guigal 1997 Côte Rotie La Landonne. The Guigal was surprisingly youthful, smoky in its own right with beautiful dark fruit offsetting the earthiness of the lamb dish.
Our fourth course was a sublime Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Foie Gras, Demi Glace, and Very Old Balsamic. It was paired to the Benjamin Romeo 2001 Contador Rioja – a wine of deep dark power. At this point one of the guests brought a special wine that we tasted blind alongside the Contador. It turned out to be a 2000 Pavie Saint-Emilion Bordeaux. Both were fabulous!
We finished with an intense wine, the Alois Kracher #12, paired to a delicately gelatinous Panna Cotta Formaggioso with Apricot Sauce, Golden Raisin And Orange Compote topped by an Almond Florentine. The #12 has less than 4% alcohol so, under Austrian law, it cannot be called a wine. It was unctuous, complex and a kind companion to the panna cotta – not overwhelming it.
Chef Peter Levine did an incredible job creating dishes I can still taste later. Our server and wine captain were outstanding. Never obtrusive, they quietly and efficiently orchestrated our dinner so that it flowed smoothly while they attended to each individual’s needs.
A memorable event!
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