Classic, fine affordable red Burgundy

According to Allen Meadows of Burghound, Paul Jacqueson, “runs one of the finest domaines in all of the C’te Chalonnaise.” I came upon this wine at a trade tasting recently. There were approximately 70 wines tasted. I liked this Burgundy immediately so I asked to re-taste it when I could focus more clearly on the wine.

I still like this wine and I suppose one the reasons I like it is that it is elegant and precise – unlike the over-extracted Syrah-like Pinots that are flooding the market. This is how Burgundy should taste. At 13% alcohol, don’t expect a viscous fruit bomb; the Jacqueson is restrained and somewhat light. It dances on the palate.

In 2003, the domaine avoided many of the pitfalls of a hot vintage. Paul Jacqueson said that he started the harvest on the 25th of August and began with his pinot crop, noting that “we had to do a lot of sorting work. Many of the grapes that were exposed to the sun were so burned that I felt it was necessary to excise them. Sugars were good and our grapes kept sufficient acidity that I didn’t add any tartaric at all. I also kept the lees and did a lot of stirring, even for the Aligot’. I got this idea from my father Henri, who was around for both the 1928 and 1947 harvests* and they did exactly the same thing, which is to say no acidulation and did a lot of work with the fine lees. We will fine the ’03s however as there is a lot of protein in the wines.”

*both years were very hot, like 2003

Cheers!

Arnie

Paul Jacqueson Mercurey 1er Cru “Las Naugues”

Earthy, forest floor and peach and pale red berry aromas. Not over extracted. The wine tastes fresh with good acidity and round strawberry, wild berry fruit. Elegant and exactly what good Burgundy should taste like. Balanced with ripe, smooth tannins on the finish.

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